FISHING, HUNTING, AND FUN, AT ‘LA LOGE’ IN LE ROANNAIS by Brian Franklin

Another wondrous wander into the idyllic land of the 'hunter'.

This time a visit with the family on the invitation of Michel, 'Le Chasseur' (The Hunter) for a fun evening fishing, followed by a 'backwoodsman's' barbeque.

A first visit for my wife, Lucy, and son OJ. Ellis, our 6 year old son, was with us, along with Fabrice and his two children, Marie and Martin.

Another fun-filled excursion amongst the beautiful landscape and extensive waters and grounds of La Loge. All set in the stunning countryside of Forez within the region of Le Roannais. (Visit our previous 'blog' on this amazing place, 'A Day In The Hunting Grounds Of Le Roannais').

Michel's open-ness and welcoming manner makes us all feel at 'home' once again!

Lucy, slightly underdressed in summmer flip-flops, was amazed by the beauty of the scenery and the size of the grounds and the several large lakes.

Not actually a country girl at heart (normally preferring the seductive comforts of 5 star hotel luxury with in-house waiter service), she did actually enjoy the wander along the wooded lanes of La Loge. She even helped and encouraged Ellis to reel in his very first fish!

It was quite late in the afternoon when we arrived at the hunting lodge, and the sun was already low in the sky. The sunlight, glistening and dancing across the still waters, created graphic silhouettes of the trees and reeds against the dimming blue-yellow sky of approaching dusk.

 

 

 

 

 

Once the sun had dropped and set into the trees we all lazily trudged back in the balmy warmth of the evening to the lodge, hungry and thirsty, ready for the traditional barbeque.
On our walk back Michel checked a few traps for the infamous 'ragondin' (coypu), or anything else that may have wandered unexpectantly into the hunter's domain!

 

 

 

 He then gave the kids a short ride on an old  tractor, normally used for various maintenance around the lakes and cutting the grass and hedges down the many lanes that criss-cross their way through this natural paradise.

Almost a dream come true, the kids just loved every minute of it!

 

 

 

 

 

I think the images, here, speak for themselves, and seem to reflect a rural age gone by.

And, yet, we can still grasp an occasional 'taste' of the simplicity and honesty of a past way of life by entering the wonderful natural world of 'La Loge'.

How lucky we are! Thanks, Michel!!

 

My Second Visit In A Month! 

Now, we may have come to the end of our family excursion into Michel's country life, but I was encouraged to return later in September for a hunting expedition, and my first 'sleep-over' at La Loge.

So, I continue.

This seemed a great opportunity to get to know the workings of La Loge and its environs a little more, as well as a good introduction to its seasonal hunting activities, and, of course, the reality of its existence and purpose.

Also, it was a good chance to meet up with a few more of Michel's French friends.

Now, my experience of the hunter's art is pretty minimal and limited apart from some fishing, some clay-shooting, and a dawn 'patrol' through the woodlands near Dartmoor with my brother-in-law (an expert, professional hunter) on a deer-hunting (or, I should say, culling) mission.

We were dressed, machismo-style, looking like a cross between a terrorist militiaman and a member of the SAS, and we spent several hours up in the trees in 'hides'.

We saw deer, but none were assasinated! And, apart from some rifle target practice I never shot at anything belonging to the animal kingdom.

So, yes, I've had a little 'taster' of the hunting fraternity, but this trip to La Loge with Michel was my first real 'entrée'  (certainly in France, anyway).

I was going on one of their first 'Duck Hunts' of the season. 

The weather, once again, was superb. Hot and sunny. I was expecting mosquitoes again!

I had gone prepared, with combat-style jeans, boots, cap, and warm jerkin for the early morning start, along with plenty of repellent! No gun, just my camera!

Michel and I  made rendezvous at La Loge during the Saturday evening prior to the hunt the following Sunday.

We went for a walk through the grounds before eating.

As we trudged down the lanes lots of little frogs, like grasshoppers, jumped out of our path.

Across the lake there were hundreds of ducks paddling and flying around amongst the few swans.

Michel fed fish with some old bread – there were multitudes of them, like pirhana, attacking the floating bits of food.

 

We went on, as the sun set, and Michel checked for early footprint signs of couchon sauvage (wild boar), and also checked traps ( a regular job!).

I was certainly back in the wilderness.

I could here the popping and echo of gunshots from other late evening 'shoots' going on in different parts of the surrounding countryside. A foretaste of things to come.

We eventually made our way back, picking juicy blackberries as we walked.

After a simple meal, and wine, it was early to bed for an early rise!

I entered my allocated room clutching my sleeping bag – I was surrounded by all sorts of stuffed animals – hawks, owls, foxes, deer, and creatures I could only guess at!

These, along with my blood relations, the mosquitoes, would be my night-time companions until the early hours of sunlight rescued me from their deathly stares!

 

 

 

 

 

The following morning we were rudely awakened at about 6.00am by heavy banging on the front door and the gruff sounds of dogs barking outside.

This was the first party of eager hunters arriving. In fact, arriving a little too early for Michel's liking.

It was very misty outside. It was going to be a gloriously sunny and hot day, but this would not start until at least 9.00am.

You can't shoot ducks very easily in fog!!

However, we arose and while we drank coffee and ate croissants the rest of the hunting party arrived. In total there were about a dozen of us. Most, literally, dressed to kill!  

All with well-oiled shotguns, cartridge belts around their waists, or in rows of small pockets stitched into their hunting jackets. (not quite like mexican bandits, more like paysan  mafia gunmen in Sicily)

They were all extremely friendly, convivial, and with a good sense of humour.

At about 8.00am we went off on our first 'shoot' of the day near one of the largest lakes.

It was still misty. There was no chance of shooting anything!

The landscape around the lake in the thinning mist – the reeds, the trees, with the early morning sun trying to burn its way through – was eery, but beautiful. A totally different 'mood' at that early hour. 

Results of the first 'shoot' were a little disappointing. Quite a few shots were popped off, but with few hits, and the dogs seemed a liitle edgy. Probably born of frustration, and the enforced delay upon  their eagerness to do their job and fetch the fallen prey from the waters.

However, there was a lot of joviality and camaraderie during the proceedings, and a good-humoured wait for the sun to take a hold and the sky to clear.

After an hour we went back to the lodge for a refresher – a glass of white wine – 'Tokay', Alsacienne pinot gris. (These hunters know how to pace themselves!)

 

 

Then we were off again to new hunting grounds.

This time I travelled in the back of a van with Michel and a black labrador, in the dark.

After 15 minutes or so the van doors were opened, and as our eyes adjusted to the, now stronger, sunlight we quietly and stealthily stalked our way to another large lake where Michel and I lay in wait while others moved around the outer edges of the lake to then set the ducks to flight towards our guns.

All very exciting, with plenty of gunshots this time, a dozen or more successful kills.

The dogs were fantastic. Obediently leaping into the waters to retrieve the dead ducks.

 

 

 

 

 

This time the hunters showed their experience and organisation. It was a success!

We then moved on to another spot, and again Michel and I travelled in the back of the van, and this time with a very wet dog in the dark!!

The next location was a large field behind trees, with the lake on the other side.

There's alot of waiting and anticipation in this hunting game! Another half a dozen kills were achieved. At one point, Michel managed a shot, but the duck wasn't completely dead.

I collected it from the ground. Michel immediately placed the top part of its skull between his teeth and cracked it – the duck went limp immediately. I was a little taken aback.

Michel smiled and said, " Primitive technique!"

 

Well, after that it was back to the lodge for lunch. One of the hunter's wives had prepared some food for us all. It was great.

They called it a "petite casse-croûte" (a little snack).

Well, it seemed a little more than a snack to me!

Basically, a mixed salad with egg, tomatoes and slices of salmon. Dauphin gratinoise potatoes. Great bread, as usual. Champagne aperitif to start, followed by red wine, cheese, and an ice cream dessert.

Not bad for a 'hunter's' snack!

With the very early start, all the ongoing activity and excitement of the hunt, followed by good food and drink, and all on a very hot day, it was time for a traditional 'siesta'.

Everyone found a space in the shade – sprawled on the grass, in a chair, on a table.

I went back to my scary room, and went out like light for almost an hour!

 

Then we started again. We went on another two different escapades and locations before the day was done.

The duck count was around 25 – not the best day's shooting, I suspect. But it was seriously great fun, and a brilliant experience for me!

As Michel says, 'La Loge is a rendezvous for friends.' And on this occasion he is most certainly right!

 

I will be visiting La Loge a few more times in the future, I think!

 

 

 

LA MAISON TROISGROS IN THE ROANNAIS by Brian Franklin

Okay, I admit it, we pushed the boat out a bit with this one!

'La Maison Troisgros' – One of the best restaurants we have ever been to! (and we've been to a few top ones in our time!)

This establishment is probably the most important claim to fame by this entire region of 'Le Roannais', and certainly by the actual township of Roanne itself.

Over 40 years of exceptional Michelin-starred cooking, quality of service, and presentation.

 

Lucy and I discovered this superb restaurant over 10 years ago now.

We ate there for lunch a couple of times in the last eight years or so, and have visited it only on very rare occasions since, usually for evening 'aperitifs' before eating at 'Le Central', it's baby brother of a restaurant next door (also part of the 'Troisgros' empire).

We went again this time for a very special treat! And what a treat it was! Outstanding!

La Maison Troisgros looks the part, even before you pass through its front doors.

The road island outside announces its presence by virtue of the celebratory sculpture at its centre, dedicated to the Troisgro's marvellous cuisine, and made entirely of oversized metal forks! 

For three generations the Troisgros family name has carved out its own very special place in the history of French gastronomy.

Founded in 1930 by Jean-Baptiste and Marie, it is now their two sons, Jean and Pierre, and Michel and Marie who have now, today, taken on the mantle and the continuation of such an incredible and successful family tradition.

In 1998, Troisgros celebrated its 30 consecutive years with three Michelin stars, the most prestigious rating in France.

They have not dropped any of their 3 star rating since they were awarded them in 1968,  so, basically, they have had this incredible accolade to the finest cuisine, service, and establishment presentation for 40 years!!

The place oozes quality, comfort, style, and, of course, expense!

We arrived, starry-eyed, at 8.00pm exactly, dropped off in chauffered-limousined style by our friend, Jean-Francois.

Yes, once again, Adeline and JF were boy-sitting our son Ellis for the night.

We didn't feel guilty! 

We anticipated the forthcoming pleasures eagerly!

The welcome at reception was perfect, and the maitre-d'hotel showed us gently to a small table in the salon-bar.

We were served delightful pre-dinner aperitifs along with chilled dry white wine.

Already relaxed and enjoying the expensive atmosphere of the place, we ordered.

And, of course, we did not hesitate – we went straight for the special tasting menu aptly named: 'Impresssions d'Eté' (Impressions of Summer), consisting of about 12 different mini courses).

We thought, well, we're here now, might as well check out Michel's full range!

 

IMPRESSIONS D'ETÉ 

Jaune mais au citron vert
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Couteaux aux câpres croquantes

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Lait caillé aux mousserons de la cueillette et à la truffe

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Bain-marie de foie gras, à la figue & noisettes fraîches

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Cabillaud poché à l'eau de tomate & à la verveine

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Queues d'ecrivisses voilées d'un lard de Parme, à l'olive violette

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Canette de Challans en dolce-forte, aux pomme & pamplemousse

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Les fromages fermiers, frais & affinés

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Mikimoto à la crème persillée

Tartlette de mirabelles & café

Blanc-manger à la menthe, pêche blanche

Fines bouches 

 

And, it goes without saying, the food was almost indescribable – lets just say  ' C'est Magnifique! '

We also didn't over drink, which is very easy to do (particularly for me!).

When the sommelier came over to our table we ordered a couple of glasses of white wine to start (Chassagne Montrachet  2005), then followed by a bottle of red (Cote Rotie 1999 Burgaud) which lasted right through the meal.

At the end of our meal I also avoided any 'Eau de Vie' this time!

The whole experience was magical from beginning to end!

The originality and mix of subtle flavours was incredible, and Lucy and I were simply stunned by the exquisite dishes which were so sensitively and artistically created, and also served with such panache and minimum of intrusion by the waiters.

The total environment, decor, and lighting, the whole atmosphere of the place, was wondrous! There are hardly enough appropriate adjectives to give substance to the description and sensation of being part of this fascinating restaurant, even just for a short time.

Our evening's enjoyment, however, lasted almost 4 hours!!

A remarkable experience which we will never forget. 

Lucy fell in love again (with Michel, who came round for a short chat), and one or two of the waiters who served us impeccably throughout the evenings, degustation.

We both went for a wander.

The whole décor was superb. Very contemporary, carefully lit, and stylishly furnished.( Marie- Pierre does a very good job on the interior design!)

Even the toilets were good enough to eat in!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lucy found the gardens in a courtyard at the back, and beckoned me to visit.

Just beautifully laid out, and romantically lit for the evening.

We were quite sad when it was time to depart, but we were also happy to have had such a fantastic time.

We'll be going back. (After we've saved up over the next year or so!)

Yes, it isn't a cheap do!

But, you generally get what you pay for in this world, and for the all-round quality at La Maison Troisgros its 'bloody' worth it !!

So, our advice is – just GO !!!!

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                      La Maison Troisgros

                                                                      Place Jean Troisgros

                                                                      42300 Roanne

                                                                      Telephone: 0033 (0) 477 71 66 97

                                                                       www.troisgros.com 

 

 

 

HORSE-RIDING AND FUN AT ‘LAC DES SAPINS’ by Brian Franklin

The wild west meets the Beaujolais at the edge of Le Roannais !

It was sunny, hot, and ideal for a stage coach ride to the 'Rodeo'.

Well, a short 30 minute car journey to a fantastic wooded park with huge lake (called Lac des Sapins), and plenty to do for family and kids alike.

We were on a day out in the sunshine with some friends who were staying at 'Le Cuvage' for part of their holiday in France with us.

The kids needed somewhere to let off a bit of steam, and we wanted a bit of fun, too!

'Lac des Sapins was certainly a great place to start. 

 

Now,I've done some horse-riding in my time (not alot, admittedly!), and I am certainly no expert.

I've ridden (if you can call it riding, of course!) in England, Austria, Portugal, Greece, and France' before.

Doesn't really mean much, except that I've seen some brilliant scenery in different countries, and in places where it is a little more difficult to access by foot. (So my claim to fame is that I have almost fallen off several horses at an international level!)

Why do I do it?  I don't know. I just love it! The excitement of riding an animal. The uncertainty. The scenery and the overall experience. 

I want to be Clint Eastwood or Zorro, but never quite manage it!

Usually, the stable master or owner asks," Can you ride, and have you ridden before?"

And I cannot help but answer, with some degree of macho confidence (which, of course, is a huge mistake on my part),"Well, er yes, a little bit"

Then the next thing I know I'm being introduced to a huge black horse called 'Satan' or something else even more alarming, which is stomping its legs and snorting fire.

It's one aim in life, of course, is to end mine!

Or, at least scare me to death! Usually with some degree of success, I might add, before I even attempt to mount the damn thing!

I have had many close encounters of like kind.

However, I digress.

This is really an introduction to the wonders, fun, and facilities of Lac des Sapins in the Rhone Alpes region, Le Pays Beaujolais (not far from us in Le  Roannais)

Basically this is a huge lake (4.5 km around) set in a sensational valley of pine trees (hence the name 'Sapins' in French).

The overall site is about 115 hectares with a plan d'eau of about 38 hectares.

 

It is an excellent, well-maintained, and beautiful location where families can enjoy a great day out either just relaxing or engaging in all types of activities – boating, sailing, canoeing, fishing, swimming, quad biking, cycling, etc., etc., and, of course, horse-riding and  pony-trekking.

We've been a few times before with different friends.

This time we decided immediately that we would get some four-legged creatures involved in our fun-making.

Myself, and my 6 year-old son Ellis, along with my friend Mark and his 6 year-old son Daniel, had excitedly booked ourselves down for the 'Rodeo'.

Well, Ellis and Daniel were going on a half-hour pony ride, and Mark and I  were going for a bit of a gallop around Lac des Sapins for an hour – whooppee!! Yah! 

Our wives, Lucy and Jackie were in charge of reportage and photography! 

 

Ellis and Daniel went first.

Mark and I were a little surprised that we were given the reins of each pony with the boys clad and astride, and then told quite matter-of-factly to wander off round part of the forest for half an hour!

This was very trusting, and also a little scary at first, because although the ponies looked cuddly and like something out of a Thelwell cartoon, they were tough, strong beasts with their own minds!!

Always searching for the next sweet clump of grass to bury their big heads into!

We had to show them who was boss. We were tough, too!

We tamed them (I don't think!), and pushed and tugged them around at quite a trot in the heat of the mid-day sun.

 

Ellis and Daniel absolutely loved it!

Mark and I were ready for the knacker's yard afterwards, and glad of a bit of a respite before our own 'gladiatorial' event!

Which was soon upon us.

 

 

 

 

Once we had attired ourselves in the appropriate headgear (we looked more like a couple of 'goons' than Clint Eastwood, and definitely more 'Ugly' than 'Good', or 'Bad'.

However, we waited expectantly, and somewhat hesitantly, to see what monstrous steed we would be climbing onto.

In the end, despite the jokes, the stallions were reasonably sized, and beautifully groomed, and we were very much relieved (neither of them were called 'Satan', thank God!).

Then we were off! Yippee!!

The ride was exceptionally well organised, and as safe as possibly it could be while you're dangling on (or off) a wild beast. 

 

 

The scenery we saw off the beaten track was breathtaking, and the trotting, and cantering were great fun.

 

 

 

 

In fact, we could easily have done another hour, and certainly much more galloping.

When we eventually returned to the stables, we dismounted slightly sore around the edges, but there was not a bow-legged cowboy's walk between us!

We will no doubt do it again.

 

 

 

 

Of course, there is much more to do at Lac des Sapins than just a bit of horse-riding.

There are activities of all sorts in the open air, on the beach, or at the side of the lake.

Recreation and sport for families, friends, and children.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adventure Forest

Suspended in the trees, discover the forest from another angle.

With the beauty of different courses, the Adventure Forest allows children and adults to move from tree to tree in total security with rope-swings, suspended bridges, and tight-rope of 100 metres, plus new activities for personal enrichment and new sensations.(Many regional schools and associations use this facility regularly.)

Walks in the Beaujolais Countryside 

Also, discover the fantastic Beaujolais countryside accompanied by a country guide, including local history, natural, religious, and industrial.

En route you discover the life and the evolution of the local textile industry, along with agiculture, and local artisans – not forgetting the local food and wine!

There are conference and seminar facilities for large or small groups, all on site at 'Maison d'Europe, with giant 'cinema' screens for film and presentations of all kinds.

It is very much an educational, communcative, location.

Camping facilities are also available on site, along with fully-equipped luxury chalets.

Auberge de la Voisinée

Traditional flavours from the region for you to savour.

In the welcoming atmosphere and pleasant surroundings of the 'Auberge de la Voisinée'.

A superb on-site restaurant at the lake's edge.

All-in-all Lac des Sapins is a great place to visit for all sorts of pleasures, or business.

Check out the website for more information :  www.lacdessapins.fr