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Purefrancenow returns to wonderful Reggio Emelia!
More from Reggio Emelia soon! WATCH THIS SPACE!!
Purefrancenow visits romantic Verona, and stunning Lake Garda.
As we have said before, the Roannais, here in central France, is exceptionally convenient for easy access to many different places of interest. A short plane ‘hop’ (45 minutes) from Lyon to Milan, and you are amongst the wonders of Italian culture, countryside, and cuisine. We love it!
Pick up a little Fiat run-around and you instantly become part of the Italian way of life (and driving, of course!!)
A couple of picturesque hours steady motoring, and you can be in the amazing city of Verona – where’s my glass of Valpolicella?!
Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, owing to its artistic heritage, several annual fairs, shows, and operas, such as the lyrical season in the Arena, the ancient amphitheatre built by the Romans.
The city has been awarded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO because of its urban structure and architecture.
Our 3-day visit to Verona, including a day out to Lake Garda (only 40 minutes drive away) was excellent.
Warm, sunny Italian weather, beautiful countryside, stunning ancient architecture, and traditional cuisine to die for – what more do you want!
Lake Garda (Italian: Lago di Garda or Benaco) is the largest lake in Italy. It is located in Northern Italy, about half-way between Brescia and Verona, and between Venice and Milan.
Glaciers formed this alpine region at the end of the last Ice Age. The lake and its shoreline are divided between the provinces of Verona (to the southeast), Brescia (southwest), and Trentino (north).
Being easily accessible from the north via the Brenner Pass, the lake is a major tourist destination, including a number of exclusive hotels and resorts along its shore.
The northern part of the lake is narrower, surrounded by mountains, the majority of which belong to the Gruppo del Baldo.
The shape is typical of a moraine valley, probably having been formed under the action of a Paleolithic glacier.
Although traces of the glacier’s actions are evident today, in more recent years it has been hypothesized that the glacier occupied a previously existing depression, created by stream erosion 5 to 6 million years ago.
The lake has numerous small islands and five main ones, the largest being Isola del Garda. Nearby to the south is Isola San Biagio, also known as the Isola dei Conigli (“Island of the Rabbits”). Both are offshore of San Felice del Benaco, on the west side.
The three other main islands are Isola dell’Olivo, Isola di Sogno, and Isola di Trimelone, all farther north near the east side.
The main tributary is the Sarca River, while the only outlet is the Mincio River.
The ancient fortified town of Sirmione, located on the south of the lake, is one particularly popular destination, home to the Virgilio & Catullo Spa Complexes, as well as numerous restaurants, bars, hotels, fashion stores and a market.
The picturesque Scaliger castle dates from the 13th century.
Just an absolutely wonderful place for all the family with plenty of opportunities for boat rides and bathing in the cool waters of the lake. A magical place! Great place for petite vacances.
The Beaujolais near the Roannais!
The Roannais may not be the most well known wine growing area around the world, but our neighboring department certainly is.
The Beaujolais is just 30 minutes drive from Roanne, in fact pre-19th century the Roannais was part of the Beaujolais region.
Although we have been to the famous Beaujolais region quite a few times, we had a special opportunity to visit a small, family producer of wonderful red and white wines.
Roger Dumas cultivates a mere 5 hectares of vines and follows generations of his family in growing traditionally and esthetically.
Twice, each year, for a weekend, M. Dumas opens his doors and takes immense pleasure in explaining his methods and ethics to the public.
His is a story of tradition and quality, profit being a bonus when it happens, but certainly not Roger’s priority.
A producer of integrity and humility, who cares for his land with true passion and belief in quality, never willing to sacrifice the latter.
We originally visited with a good friend, who had joined the group of loyal ‘harvesters’ each year, (in his younger days!) to work hard in the fields, sleep rough in the huge barn and benefit from the fabulous family hospitality each evening. A ‘rites de passage’ for many a young man, (and woman of course!)
The Beaujolais region is notoriously beautiful. Rolling green hillsides dotted with tiny villages, golden in the sunshine.
Though not distracting from this beauty, as in many regions, a change has taken place over recent years.
Sadly, you can see where odd fields have been stripped of their vines and turned to more profitable crops, a mark of the decline in France’s dominance of the world wine market, as new countries and big business in particular take over.
Never an option for M. Dumas, who almost takes great delight in describing the 2 years out of the last 10, when due to bad storms in the area, his whole crop was destroyed.
Not willing to compromise, and produce an inferior vintage, the harvest was abandoned until the following year- c’est la vie!
Back to the visit!
The very humble barn had been opened, and decked with trellis tables.
Along side the open bottles lined up for tasting, were various local delights- huge bowls of cherries from the garden, green olives and oil from a family friend in Spain, who shares M. Dumas’s beliefs in traditional and natural production. There were walnuts and almonds, from the same Spanish farm as well as cured ham, delicious!
The red wines varied in age, each with it’s own distinct character and along with the white, rose and sparkling, offered a variety fit for any occasion.
Also a delight was the locally made goats cheese and honey that was on offer to taste. With their artisan producers, proudly talking about their products, and farms.
We came away, as one does on these occasions, feeling content and at one with the world, happy that in this corner of France, like our own Roannais region, the respect for nature and traditional ways were being upheld against the flow of technology and mass production.
Try our Purefrancenow Gourmet Week-ends with visit to a vineyard in the marvellous Cote Roannais, complete with wine-tasting, and a sumptious ‘Menu Gourmand’ at the amazing Château de Champlong.