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Snails, snails, and more snails in the Roannais by Brian Franklin
Now, I have to say, that being a bit of a Francophile I do have a penchant for French gastronomy. I have for well-over 40 years! In fact, as long as our local, world famous restaurant, Maison Trois Gros in Roanne, has had its 3 Michelin stars!!
So, as with many ‘foodies’ I love French wine, cheese, chocolate, patisserie, and the variety and brilliance of quality French cuisine, generally.
Renowned and always stereotyped, as the French are, for the more bizarre and often extravagant tastes of Frogs (grenouille), foie gras, tête de veau (head of calf), choucroute, casse croûte, cassolet, fruits de mer, etc, etc., (the list goes on, and on!), the noble snail is very much one of the purist symbols of quintessential French food.
And, of course, probably the most visually reviled by the English, let alone regarded as inedible creatures slithering around in the garden eating the lettuce!
In the past, I often enjoyed having six or a dozen snails whilst watching the humorous grimaces of my friends (and my wife!) around the table, as I always tucked in with greedy enthusiasm.
The French are, however, the ultimate experts at preparing, cooking, and serving these little delicacies. They have also developed a variety of ways and recipes to maximise their appeal.
The traditional grouping of snails, shrivelled from cooking in olive oil, herbs and garlic are classic meaty morsels, and served piping hot with some good ‘dipping’ French bread can certainly be a fulfilling meal in themselves.
I had the good fortune this month to be invited by a group of French friends to a small, unassuming restaurant in Roanne with the inviting name of “L’escargot”. My first thought was, ‘ I like the sound of that!’
So, as I had never dined at this restaurant before it was with a mixture of slight trepidation, and the excitement of having some snails, that I arrived hungry, and ready to be impressed. I wasn’t disappointed.
Now, this little restaurant was not a gastronomic paradise. It was just a very friendly, easy-going place, totally unassuming, with a ‘real’ traditional French atmosphere. Often a sign of good basic fayre!
As I stated to all my French friends, you cannot come to a restaurant with the name of ‘L’escargot’ without eating the same.
They all agreed, and we all ordered them as a starter dish. I don’t know why, but it may, of course, have been ‘perdu en translation’ (lost in translation), as my French is often ‘wanting’, that I was served with something none of the others had.
It may, of course, have been the fact that I was English, and the proprietor and chef de cuisine wanted to impress, or that I had earlier pointed to ‘escargot à la crème d’ail’ which was a special dish off the à la carte menu.
However, what arrived at the table for just myself alone was most definitely a surprise and a delight. I had never seen snails served in such a ‘collective’ on the same plate.
There was the classic of 6 snails served in a traditional round ‘snail’ dish with olive oil, herbs and plenty of garlic.
Then next to this there was a porcelain cup with sliced snails in a warm cream, garlic sauce. And also a large pot with more sliced snails mixed in a creamy, yellow, turmeric-flavoured garlic sauce with a slice of bacon.
The whole combination was unusual, and tasted amazing, particularly with good bread. I left nothing.
The only slight ‘fall-out’ was that my wife complained of my garlic and turmeric smell for the next two days after!!
My main dish was ‘filet mignon de sanglier’ (wild boar) with a rich red wine sauce. I certainly felt ‘replete’ afterwards, and not a little enebriated, because, as usual, we had chosen some rather pleasant red wines to complement the menu.
A sturdy, rich and herby Crozes Hermitage – Le Launes, Delas 2010.
A slightly lighter, more subtle Côte Rotie – Brune et Blonde, De Guigal 2006.
A strong, full-bodied Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes 2007.
I was a very happy man!
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Marvellous Cote Roannaise in the Roannais!
The Marvellous Côte Roannaise.
A French appellation located in the upper loire, northwest of the city of Lyon and around the town of Roanne. Côte Roannaise produces light red and rosé wines made from Gamay with some pinot noir. The wines are similiar in style to those from the Beaujolais.
Based along a hillside over 20 km long, the vineyards of the Côte Roannaise surprise those who take the time to find out more about this beautiful region. Not far from Roanne, the main township, the Roannais region reaches across the Roanne Valley up into the large hills and rolling countryside of the Côte Roannaise, with its wide variety of flora and fauna.
There are also many beautiful medieval villages nearby with a demonstrably rich heritage. T
The Gamay grapes from the local vines are lovingly prepared to produce wine of a true quality and gourmet experience.
AOC Côte Roannaise
The Gamay grape reigns on 200 hectares of AOC Côte Roannaise. It is here that the granite soils suit the vine at its best. Exposed to the east, the vineyards enjoy good sunshine as well as the constraints of a climate which can be harsh. The resultant Gourmet grapes with a fresh fruit flavour make primarily a medium-light red wine which is highly regarded.
VIGNERON CRAFT
There are around thirty independent winegrowers sharing together the fruits of these hillsides carved across the Côte Roannaise. Thirty wine caves open to receive the eager tourist visitor with typical Roannais conviviality.
VINE BUISSONNIÈRE
It is good to come to the Cote Roannaise anytime time, or for just a weekend getaway. There are many pleasures and opportunities hidden in this most welcoming valley region; Bed and breakfast accommodation, gites, winemakers, restaurants, and artisans. Great for lovers of local French produce, ancient architecture, and rural heritage.
All waiting to be discovered!
Roland Quetsch at the Bernard Ceysson Gallery.
Roland Quetsch at the Bernard Ceysson Gallery, Saint Etienne – from January 10 to March 30 2013.
Roland Quetsch was born in Luxembourg in 1979, and continues to live and work there.
Quetsch produces large remarkable and original artworks using a combination of wood, metal, canvas, latex, acrylic, vinyl, and laquer.
Certainly worth investigating, so if you are by chance in our region during the next couple of months or so, then go and have a gander at the Bernard Ceysson Gallery in Saint Etienne.
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Happy New Year in the Roannais!
